I found such a thin place recently. It's on a mountainside north of Fairbanks, Alaska, wrapped in boreal forest, blanketed in snow, and cold enough to leave frost on your eyelashes and make you question your life choices. It's like Narnia, minus a lamppost, a white witch, talking creatures, and a lion who is good but most certainly not safe. Like sentinels of the wood, spruce trees wore uniforms of snow, boughs bending low under the weight. Snow would fall off a branch, causing it to spring back up like a firm salute to the skies above.
And then the lights - those oh-so-awe-inspiring northern lights. My friend said it was like watching someone play the piano, the keys moving up and down gracefully, playing a tune only angels can comprehend.
Yes, there it was. The width of a whisper on a mountainside in Alaska, my own thin place.
I had wanted to see the northern lights for as long as I can remember, and with a milestone birthday coming around the bend, I began exploring the who's, how's, and what's of seeing them. I marked my 30th birthday by riding horses on the beach in New Zealand and wandering around Hobbiton, both items on the bucket list, so why not cross another item off for my 40th? Plotting and planning began nearly a year ago and finally a few weeks ago I found myself heading to the heart of Alaska, along with my aunt, cousin, and friend.
I'm not entirely sure what it is about spaces like Wyoming and Alaska that seem to be my undoing. Or maybe in some small way my remaking. There is this inexplicable pull to places of wildness and vastness, jagged mountains and sweeping views, silence and solitude, and nary a cell tower in sight. A kind of homesickness for a place that has never been home. But maybe it's just all a romanticized notion in my head, a way of seeing these places through rose-colored glasses, building them up to be far more than they really are.
But is it possible to make too much of misty greens and reds, suspended high in the sky, undulating in a cosmic display of wonder, with the Big Dipper as their silent starry companion? Is it possible to make too much of the sheer delight of standing on the foot boards of a dog sled as a team of huskies works in tandem to pull you across the snowy terrain? Is it possible to make too much of cold air that snaps you into awareness and penetrates to your very bones? Is it possible to make too much of an aerial view of wilderness that nearly takes your breath away and brings the slightest hint of tears to your eyes?No, I don't think it's possible to make too much of such things, to make too much of the thin places in this world.
Even if those thin places are a bit brisk at times.
But pile on enough layers and you start not to notice the cold. At least until you pull a glove off to adjust a boot strap or a zipper, and then you wonder if you've just been speared with a thousand icicles, the cold almost creating a burning sensation.
Our adventures started in Anchorage, but we didn't linger long before we found ourselves on a 12-hour train ride north to our final destination in Fairbanks, the 'Golden Heart of Alaska.' From there, we ventured another hour north to Borealis Basecamp. And then we had the time of our lives snowmobiling (minus that moment when we tipped the whole thing over sideways), dogsledding, hanging out with reindeer, nearly hanging out the back of a snowcat, sleeping in igloos, reveling in the beauty of the northern lights, taking a breathtaking helicopter tour through the White Mountains, enjoying good food (more salmon chowder, please!), and laughing so hard I cried on more than one occasion.I never said the thin places couldn't also be found in the ache of cheeks hurting from laughing so much or a good amaretto sour in the company of fellow storytellers.
It seems since returning home, Alaska is all I can think about - when to go back, how to get there, where to go, what to see. I want more of the thin places in this world.
Even if they do come with subzero temperatures and the need for six layers of clothing.








